Introducing Mokume Gane Jewelry

Creating Mokume Gane Jewelry!

Mokume Gane (pronounced “Moe-koo-may Gah-nay”) is an ancient metalworking technique developed in feudal Japan, by master sword smiths, to embellish the hilts of Samurai swords. The name Mokume Gane translates from Japanese to "wood grain metal." There are only a few master artisans in this country creating Mokume.

Inspired by nature, the patterns of the Michael Daniels Collection reflect earth, water, fire and living things and no two pieces of Mokume jewelry are identical. When you wear Mokume constantly touching your skin, the original colors may periodically darken or fade -- changing according to your body chemistry -- and reflecting, over time, your individuality.

The Mokume from this collection is the only one to use anywhere from four to seven different colors in the creation of their jewelry.

Selecting and Heating

Each piece of Mokume jewelry begins as a stack of layered 18K gold -- each layer placed in a specific order to generate a particular pattern. Fusing these layers is a difficult process, as each has its own chemistry which affects its behavior under heat.

After the order of the metals is selected, the stack is placed inside an oven where time and temperature are closely monitored in order to get the desired effect of heat and pressure. The end result is a fused layered stack called a "billet."

Shaping the Billet

Once cooled, the billet must be prepared for reduction. The first step of this preparation is to trim the edges down to fresh metal, removing all uneven ends and any oxidation on the outer layer. The billet is then hammered, ground down, and measured repeatedly until it reaches the artisans’ exacting standards. It is not unusual for this process to be repeated up to 25 times.

Finally, the billet is ready for rolling and patterning.

Rolling and Patterning

The billet is then rolled into a long rod, a process as meticulous and detailed as the reduction process. During the final phase of patterning, the rod is carved by hand through the various layers creating the dramatic and complex patterns that, in our opinion, distinguish The Michael Daniels Collection from all other Mokume.